For those interested in the study and preservation of Wisconsin's underwater history and cultural resources.
CLAY BANKS BOTTOM LANDS
SURVEY PROJECT
Outline:
Overview
Methods & Materials
General Pier Locations
Foscoro
Clay Banks
Horns Pier
Documented Shipwrecks
Research Parameters
Contact Information
Slideshow of photos
View a
map of the Clay Banks site
HERE
PROJECT SYNOPSIS
OVERVIEW: The Clay Banks region of Door County borders Lake Michigan from about 5 miles north of Algoma to about 3 miles south of the Sturgeon Bay Ship Canal. As Door County goes, this is a relatively undeveloped area with high hills overlooking a shoreline which sports several parks, long stretches of rocky beach, and many wooded areas with clusters of cottages and homes. Soon after the Civil War, this part of the County rapidly developed as several lakefront villages sprang up around industries producing lumber, bricks, tanning bark, cordwood, and railroad ties. By the late 1860s, the area had the longest piers (over 1,000 feet) in Door County for shipping local products and receiving incoming supplies. These lengthy docks were needed because the offshore waters harbor many shallow reefs, rock ledges, and bottom boulders.
As one might guess, this treacherous marine topography resulted in many documented shipwrecks in the area. These wrecks, likely now broken up in shallow water, have never been located, identified or surveyed. Only one wreck hereabouts has been studied, the Daniel Lyons, which lies in deep water several miles off Clay Banks. Interestingly, several hulks have recently been spotted from airplanes which has sparked new interest in exploring this region.
Within Clay Banks township, three pioneer villages developed, thrived in the lumber industry, and then slowly withered away into ghost towns after the land was logged off. By 1920, all three towns were but distant memories for most area residents. Today the town sites of Foscoro, Clay Banks, and Horn's Pier have literally disappeared, leaving only hidden traces of their former glories. The terrestrial remains of their huge piers have likewise vanished beneath the water and even their exact locations have faded from memory.
METHODS & MATERIALS: The Wisconsin Underwater Archeology Association aspires to relocate the site of these old piers. This should, in turn, lead to the discovery of several new wrecks which history indicates were lost either at or near these docks. In addition, we would like to canvas the adjacent shallow reefs (25 foot deep or shallower) for other wrecks and artifacts known to have been lost in this region. Virtually no archeological survey of any kind has been done on these bottomlands.
We have organized this project so that small groups or single teams of divers can check out a given area as delineated on a master chart and site plan. As each team completes a precursory survey of a given sector, their findings will be recorded on a written report form and on a master map. As areas are investigated and items are located, recorded, and described, significant finds can be studied or surveyed in detail at a later date by professional underwater archeologists. Since the area involved is quite sizable, this project will probably take several years to complete.
This method of surveying offers certain distinct advantages: (1) Dive teams can organize their respective outings within their own time frames, making as many trips / dives as they desire. (2) Since the near-shore waters involved are shallow and usually clear, diving, snorkeling, rafting, and shallow-draft boating can all be effective search methods. Charter boats should not be needed. (3) The weather factor becomes less critical: If WUAA runs only one or two large group expeditions which encounter foul weather, the project will be seriously hampered. Allowing many small groups to operate on their own schedules lessens this possibility. If Lake Michigan should be too rough, Door County offers other spots to dive or things to do for small groups. (4) Each team can evaluate and operate under those conditions commensurate with their skills and experience. Since these shallow, near-shore areas offer reasonably controlled dive conditions, divers or snorkelers without extensive experience can participate.
Before making a trip, each dive team should check with the Project Coordinator(s) to pick an area(s) to search which has not yet been covered. In this manner, the same area will not be canvassed by different teams unless there's some compelling reason to do so. Certain areas may be double checked if initial searches are incomplete or significant finds are made which require additional examination. However, it is NOT mandatory that teams always dive only their "assigned area," but rather are free to investigate any intriguing spot, so long as they record their position and findings as best they can. WUAA also realizes that impromptu dive trips often occur during summer weekends and that prior contact with Project Coordinators may not be possible. The important thing is that the results of the trip, even if nothing was found, are reported to WUAA via a written form, a copy of which is included in this synopsis.
GENERAL PIER LOCATIONS:
The exact number and location of old pier sites within Clay Banks township is unclear. Historic records refer to numerous docks and dock owners beginning about 1865 and continuing into the 20th century. Presumably many references involve the same structures which merely changed ownership, but good records of such transactions are lacking. Names such as Vader, Tufts, Horn, Fellner, Hitt, Davidson, Foster, Fellows, Roe, Swaty, and Gillilland are just a few of the known dock masters. One phase of this WUAA project will attempt to reconstruct the history and ownership lineage of these historic piers, which were located in three primary areas as fellows:
THE FOSCORO AREA: This is the southernmost area of the survey, located on County U about 5 miles north of Algoma. Foscoro was a "lumber town" situated near the mouth of prominent Stoney Creek, located just north of the intersection of Kennedy Road and County U. The village had a sawmill, telegraph station, post office, and several stores. Stoney Creek was dammed to facilitate logging operations, a large sawmill was built across the stream, and a pier was constructed 1,000 feet out into the lake to ship lumber products. In later years, several tugs operated from this pier, steaming out to assist sailing vessels wishing to enter the Sturgeon Bay Ship canal. Notably, several interesting shipwrecks occurred in this area, including the Goodrich Line steamer Carolina which stranded there in 1917. Today nothing remains of this small settlement.
THE CLAY BANKS AREA: This area lies two miles north of Foscoro where County U meets Midway Road. Clay Banks was named for the high hills facing the Lake Michigan shoreline which were conspicuous landmarks for passing ships. These bluffs are, in fact, uplifted recessional beaches left over from the last Ice Age. The hamlet of Clay Banks once had a huge sawmill, at least six businesses, three schools, a telegraph terminal, and four post offices. During the 1870's, Clay Banks shipped more material than any other Door County port. Today, a few buildings and cottages are located here, but no obvious parts of the town are left.
Nonetheless, the area has high potential to yield a number of new, undiscovered wrecks, although they will undoubtedly be broken and scattered. A group of divers started to explore these bottom lands in 1965, spurred by some "leads" turned up by "Happy Jack" Engerson who had a dive shop in Egg Harbor during the 1960's. During those dives, they discovered at least two wrecks, some machinery, railroad wheels, and a large kedge anchor which was raised and sold. These artifacts were found on a rock shelf off the mouth of Schuyler's Creek. Surprisingly, the divers never returned to investigate these wrecks further.
The Clay Banks "town pier" at the mouth of Bear Creek, owned by Hitt & Davidson Lumber Company, was the longest in the County at 1,600 feet. In the 1870's, the Hitt & Davidson sawmill was producing up to 100,00 shingles per day along with tons of lumber. North of town was Tuft's Pier, and north of there at the edge of the township, was Horn's Pier (end of Horn's Pier Road). Tuft's Pier, located near the mouth of Schuyler's Creek, was also an extremely active shipping point.
Over the years, these docks sometimes changed ownership, but their positions stayed pretty much the same. On occasion, they were damaged or destroyed by violent storms or fire, but were promptly rebuilt. Much maritime activity, including many shipwrecks, occurred in this area, but few historical investigations have been conducted here by maritime historians or divers. The basic WUAA search plan is simple: Locate the underwater cribbing or pilings left from the old piers, and several wrecks will likely be found nearby.
HORN'S PIER AREA: At the time of the Civil War, W. H. Horn built a long pier at the northeast edge of Clay Banks Township. This spot soon became a popular shipping center for wood products. A small village quickly developed, eventually sporting 15 buildings, including a large dance hall. The dock and warehouse burned in 1871, but were soon rebuilt and continued to be a major shipping point. In the 1870's, a tremendous quantity of cedar posts, railroad ties, and telegraph poles left this port, but by 1900 little remained of the once thriving community located at the end of Horn's Pier Road. Today the site is merely a clearing in a wooded area near the lake front. Over the years, W.H. Horn also had part ownership in several other piers in the Clay Banks area.
DOCUMENTED SHIPWRECKS:
Records show that the following wrecks should be in this region, but none have ever been found, identified, or studied:
- LaPetite (1903) This 119-foot schooner capsized out in the lake and while being towed to port, broke free, and went ashore on a shallow reef near Clay Banks, seven miles south of the Ship Canal. The schooner was partially salvaged, but mostly went to pieces with considerable debris washing up on the beach. Reported in 1966 to be off the mouth of Woodard Creek.
- Glenham (1872) Scow schooner which went ashore about one mile north of Clay Banks pier after breaking free from her moorings at the dock. The crewmen were saved by a local resident, George Roberts. Never found to date, but rumored to be off Woodard Creek which makes sense because Roberts owned property just inshore from this stream.
- S.L. Noble (1868) This 88-ton scow schooner pounded to pieces while at or near Gillillan's Pier at Clay Banks during a SE gale. The location of this dock is uncertain, but the northernmost one [Tuft's] is probably the best bet. Roberts owned the property at Woodard's Creek.
- Granville (1872) This scow went ashore near Clay Banks and was broken up during a fall storm. Never found and the exact location of the sinking is not known.
- Ida Bloom (1879) This scow drifted ashore near Robert's (probably Tuft's) Pier and soon went to pieces in 9 feet of water about 1,000 feet offshore. Partially salvaged by Tufts, but has never been found by divers in recent years. (A conflicting report says she grounded one mile below Clay Banks Pier.)
- Granite State (1881) A 137-foot steam-barge that stranded at Clay Banks during a fall snow storm. Her machinery was salvaged, but the rest of vessel went to pieces. Dives in 1965 encountered parts of a steam vessel in 15 feet of water off Schuyler Creek which were thought to be parts of the Granite State. This was never investigated further.
- Sea Star (1886) This 91-foot scow schooner got caught in a nasty SE blow that smashed her against Clay Banks Pier while loading a cargo of maplewood. She crashed through the dock and sank about 180 feet away. Parts and rigging were salvaged, but the hull went to pieces near the pier, but her remains have never been located.
- Roving Star (1892) This small 61-foot schooner was loading wood at Clay Banks Pier when several huge waves caused her to hit bottom and break in half. This wreck has never been located. It was owned by Chris Braunsdorf who lived near today's Lower LaSalle Park.
- Sea Bird (1875) Schooner loaded with wheat sprung a serious leak while near Horn's Pier and the wetted grain swelled so expansively that it broke the decks and hull. The ship was a total loss near the dock, but has not yet been found.
- F. A. Fitch (1898) Schooner may have been totally wrecked at Clay Banks, but exact location is uncertain. This may be incorrect. Other reports put this vessel directly across the lake, which was a common error in wreck reporting.
- Ottawa (1911) One of the County's most famous wrecks, this 115-foot schooner went aground 1/2 mile offshore at Foscoro Reef during a spring storm. Several crewmen died attempting to reach shore. The ship was dynamited to recover its cargo of lumber and then left to disintegrate. This schooner was the first on the lakes to use wire rigging. Historical photos of the stranded ship exist, but its remains have never been located.
- John Evenson (1895) A most intriguing wreck, this newly rebuilt 54-foot tug was capsized and sunk off Stoney Creek while attempting to pick up a tow to the Ship Canal. She was located by divers, but salvage attempts failed. The reported depth over the wreck was only 45 feet, although another report says 80 feet (to the bottom). Despite many sonar searches for this vessel, it has never been located.
- Reciprocity (1880) This schooner went ashore to become a complete loss at Foscoro in the big storm of 1880. The crew had abandoned her near Two Creeks, but the vessel drifted north past Algoma. Reported to have disintegrated near Stoney Creek Reef, but has yet to be found.
- Unknown tug(1893) This new tug, belonging to Captain C.L. Fellows, broke her mooring during a storm off Foscoro and grounded at the mouth of Stoney Creek. The craft was abandoned there to the elements, but has never been found since.
There are about 4 - 5 more vessels reputed to have been wrecked or stranded near Clay Banks, which might or might not be true since related records are rather vague. However, it's quite obvious that there are many broken vessels resting in the area that remain unfound. With the present clear, low water, most could probably be located by snorkeling or seen from a shallow draft boat. The whole area presents a great opportunity for some virgin wreck finds.
RESEARCH PARAMETERS
PERSONAL CONTACTS: WUAA wishes to glean as much information as possible about the maritime history of this area, both above and below water. Obviously, very valuable data can be obtained from the local populace, so be sure to "interview" folks whenever possible. Various local residents are known to be direct descendants of the early settlers. Some people may possibly be aware of the location of the old piers, certain shipwrecks, or other artifacts of interest. Be sure to write down anything pertinent that you learn. Sometimes "sea stories" or rumors turn into profitable leads, and seemingly insignificant data can later become very important.
RESPECT PROPERTY: While there are many undeveloped areas of shoreline within Clay Banks Township, it may be necessary at times to cross private land to reach certain objectives. Be sure to check with land owners whenever necessary and do not trespass on posted land. You will usually find that local residents will be interested in this project and will be cooperative. Most folks are fascinated by shipwrecks, especially those in their own backyards.
EXPEDITION MANAGEMENT: The WUAA Project Coordinators(s) will try to log the exploratory field trips, manage community equipment, and collect / record gleaned data. Of course, each field trip will generally be a self-directed operation. It can be as simple or involved as each respective "team" desires. However, it is suggested that before each trip, the designated leader check in at least a week before departure with the Project Coordinator for suggestions regarding what needs to be checked and to receive any new or pertinent information such as recent finds or new leads uncovered by prior trips. The Coordinator(s) should have the latest information which will usually be helpful to each following expedition. They will also have a handheld GPS which can be borrowed to ascertain precise shore fixes for area(s) being investigated.
However, at this starting point, virtually all areas are open for investigation, so close coordination of dives is not essential. Likewise, a general description of where the dive was conducted, using any recognizable shoreline features to pinpoint the site, will provide sufficient location information. It is, however, important that a dive report form be filed with WUAA.
RECORDING RESULTS: A master map of the area has been created by dividing the township shorelines and offshore area (1,600 feet out) into segments which need to be investigated. The map also indicates approximately where we believe the old pier sites were located. A miniature version of this map (without subdivisions) is provided in this brochure for reference purposes. If shipwreck debris is encountered which needs identification, helpful information can be obtained at
Click on Educational Tools or Glossary. The master map will be updated from data taken from individual reports filed by each team completing exploratory dives.
FIELD MANUAL:
By late May, an excessory field manual will be available for project participants. This will contain several helpful map references, a site by site "travel guide," and general descriptions of important lake access areas. Photos of various landmarks will be included along with a copy of the WUAA Field Report Form.
EARLY RESULTS:
Divers from the Green Bay Nimrods Club were able to do some exploratory dives late fall / early winter of 2005. Off Clay Banks / Bear Creek, they have found the what may be the commingled wreckage of a steamer and a schooner. While this find needs to be further investigated and identified, it is believed that these are the remains of the Granite State and the LaPetite or Ida Bloom, although these are very preliminary observations. Debris from these vessel are strewn across a wide rock shelf in about 10 feet of water. These divers have also found submerged remains from of piers near the abandoned townsites of Clay Banks and Horn's Pier.
AQUATIC ACTIVITIES:
At this time, there are no functional boat launches in this immediate area due to the current very low water in Lake Michigan. Good ramps exist in Algoma, Sturgeon Bay, and along the Ship Canal. However, there are numerous spots where shore dives augmented with inflatable boats, rafts, or inner tube floats can be conducted. LaSalle County Park offers a good meeting or staging area if needed. (This park has both an upper and lower level, accessible by two different roads.) Obviously, there is no direct supervision of aquatic work by WUAA, but adherence to the accepted rules of diving and boating is expected.
CONTACT INFORMATION:
Ongoing information, plus manager(s) name(s) and contact data will be available continuously on the WUAA Website www.wuaa.org Reports (and photographs) can be mailed to: WUAA, P. 0. Box 6081, Madison, WI 53716 or e-mail to wuaa@mailbag.com.
Project Coordinator:
DICK BOYD
techsupport@gmcscuba.com
332 Wells St. #109
Delafield WI 53018
262-646-2092
800-558-1811
View a
map of the Clay Banks site
HERE
Download a Word Format copy of the Clay Banks Project Field Guide HERE
Download a Word Format copy of the Clay Banks Project Site Survey Report HERE
View a slideshow of the Clay Banks Project Photos referenced in the Field Guide HERE